In the glittering world of high fashion, where red carpets and spotlights shine on a select few, a deeper story unfolds—one that often leaves the hardworking creators in the shadows. But here's where it gets intriguing: what if the industry is finally starting to acknowledge the true architects behind the scenes? This isn't just about glamour; it's about reshaping how we celebrate fashion's unsung heroes.
Imagine the scene at this year's Fashion Awards, held in the opulent Royal Albert Hall—a star-studded bash where Jonathan Anderson snagged designer of the year honors for the third time, thanks to his roles at his eponymous label and Dior. Meanwhile, model Anok Yai clinched model of the year, and Delphine Arnault, Dior's CEO and heir to fashion's richest dynasty, received a nod for nurturing emerging talent via the LVMH Prize. It's like the fashion world throwing a party for its biggest celebrities, right?
Yet, post-event buzz wasn't all applause. Praise flowed for the British Fashion Council's new leader, Laura Weir, but so did backlash. The mysterious Instagram handle boringnotcom, known for its blunt takes on the scene, posted a scathing critique: 'As I foresaw, the same old faces just cycled through the fashion awards... utterly dull.' And this is the part most people miss—it hints at a systemic issue where innovation gets stifled by repetition and favoritism.
Fast forward a bit, and a fresh awards ceremony is making waves—one that promises to spotlight names you might not recognize from glossy magazines. Organized by 1 Granary, a platform dedicated to uplifting both budding and established fashion talents beyond the brand figureheads, these Design Awards aim to honor the behind-the-scenes wizards. For each victor, 1 Granary will publicly recognize the full squad—from entry-level designers to top creative leads. Think of it as flipping the script on industry's lone-wolf narratives.
As their press statement puts it so eloquently: 'Rather than echoing fashion's tendency to idolize a single leader, we crafted awards that mirror how the field truly functions—through group efforts, partnerships, and countless choices by teams who'll never strut a runway.' It's a nod to Anderson's own words in his acceptance speech: 'I'm just the front person here. Behind me is a whole crew... I couldn't pull this off alone.'
With 20 distinct categories, winners are chosen by fellow designers, including big-shot executives like Veronica Leoni from Calvin Klein and Julian Klausner of Dries Van Noten, plus studio staff from various houses—totaling around 1,000 voters. Sure, heavyweights like Alaïa, Phoebe Philo, and Chanel scooped major wins, and Miu Miu bagged four, including best women's wear line. But now, the folks crafting those standout collections get their due in front of 1 Granary's 19,000 Substack followers. For beginners wondering what Substack is, it's a simple digital platform where writers share newsletters and articles, much like a modern blog that builds communities around topics.
This approach aligns perfectly with 1 Granary's spirit. Launched as a humble student publication by Ukrainian-born Olya Kuryshchuk, with classmates' support during her fashion design studies at Central Saint Martins in 2012, it has evolved into a powerful advocate for industry insiders who rarely grab headlines. Today, a small team of six part-timers handles everything from brand hiring to global university projects at over 50 institutions.
The awards stem from a mission to correct an imbalance. 'Our goal is straightforward: give credit where it's owed to the creators,' Kuryshchuk explains. 'Fields like architecture and music do this naturally. Fashion oddly stands apart—and it shouldn't.'
Dubbed after the iconic London fashion school's address, 1 Granary now spans a website, Substack newsletter, and Instagram account boasting 314,000 fans. It's widely read, highly regarded, and increasingly impactful. For instance, when Seán McGirr took the helm at Alexander McQueen two years back, leaving all top Kering roles in the hands of white men, 1 Granary ignited a broader conversation on diversity with a pointed Instagram post. They've also delved into AI's effects on stylists and the downfall of online retailer Ssense, even listing brands owed money by the site for subscribers in October.
1 Granary pioneered a shift toward openness in fashion, addressing woes once brushed aside to avoid rocking the boat. Now, others join the chorus. Boringnotcom, launched in 2024, delivers sharp critiques, sometimes rating shows a flat zero. Diet Prada, active since 2014, frequently calls out issues like cultural theft, including allegations of racist content from Dolce & Gabbana, which sued the founders for slander.
But here's where it gets controversial—Kuryshchuk sharply differentiates 1 Granary from these. 'We don't shame people,' she insists. 'We focus on systemic problems, not individuals or companies. We're not into rumors or viral drama; no hidden identities here. We only share what we believe in.' They've dodged legal trouble by being cautious, she notes. 'Our pieces aim for progress,' she adds. 'If it won't advance the field, we skip it.' Instead, they position themselves as a supportive network for everyday designers.
Dal Chodha, head of Central Saint Martins' fashion communications program, praises 1 Granary's role in championing backstage contributors. 'It's like a union for many,' he says. 'Where do you turn if you're toiling at a major house?' He highlights Kuryshchuk's global fashion week presence and insider ties as key. 'She hasn't leveraged it for personal fame,' he observes. 'She's channeling it to redefine fashion's essence—from her early days to now—and envision a sustainable path forward.'
Kuryshchuk draws inspiration from her student days. 'We entered with dreamy notions of the industry,' she recalls. 'Then reality hit: most grads won't land design roles.' She sees change brewing as new graduates challenge unrealistic norms, thanks to 1 Granary's influence. Yet, this advocacy ruffles feathers. 'She makes folks uneasy, much like union reps do,' Chodha notes, 'by disrupting the status quo. Bold voices on overworked, underappreciated designers are scarce in our world.'
He hopes 1 Granary stays the course, backing team players over 'show girls' like Anderson. 'Being an insider-outsider lets them speak boldly where others hesitate.'
What do you think—should fashion prioritize collective credit over individual stardom, or is the spotlight on icons what keeps the industry exciting? Do platforms like 1 Granary risk alienating power players, or are they essential for real change? Share your views in the comments; I'd love to hear your take!
